Royal Python – Python regius

Care Guide Author Kelsee Drew

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Royal Python –Python regius

The Royal Python or sometimes known as the Ball Python is as the name suggests a member of the Python species. Its ease of care and generally placid temperament has made it one of the most popular and commonly kept pet snakes. It makes an ideal pet for the novice snake keeper whilst remaining a firm favourite amongst even the most avid snake enthusiasts.

Jasmine and her Grandma enjoying cuddles with Marty, our Snake Ambassador

Royal Pythons originate from the East, West and Central regions of Africa. As a terrestrial snake they spend much of their life on the ground. However, despite their terrestrial label, these wonderful snakes can and will climb when need or opportunity presents. Generally, they frequent forest floors and grassy savannas in their natural habitat.

Africa – Geographic Range for Royal Pythons

Royal Pythons are a moderate sized constrictor and the smallest of all the African Python species. They are non-venomous feeding on rodents and occasionally small birds. In the poorer areas of Africa, they play an important role in rodent control and help protect crops.

Royal Pythons have been successfully kept and bred in captivity for over 60 years. Their ease of breeding has contributed towards their success in the pet trade. There is little need or justification for the trade in wild caught specimens of Royal Python. In their original form, Royal Pythons are stunning snakes.Normal (or ‘Classic’) Pythons display natural earthy colours such as browns, blacks and beige interspersed with white and gold makings.

Fig 4 Classic Royal Python

Classic Royal Python – Captive Bred but typical in appearance to its wild cousins

Amongst captivite bred Royal Pythons, there are a plethora of different colour and pattern mutations, referred to as morphs. These are obtained through selective breeding of animals with various colour and pattern traits along with the combination of naturally occurring genetic mutations. Some of these ‘morphs’ sell for a modest sum whilst the latest designer morph Royal Pythons can sell for several thousand pounds. It is beyond the scope of this guide to discuss morphs in greater detail. If you would like to know more about Royal Python morphs, a good starting point would be to visit the American Website http://www.worldofballpythons.com

Despite all the different morphs the ‘care guide’ for the Pythons all remain the same.

Royal Pythons are ‘crepuscular hunters’ being most active at dusk and dawn. Their eyes are adapted to dim light and sense their prey with the heat-sensitive organs known as heat pits located below the nostrils and highlighted by the white line. There are 4 on each side of the mouth and the pits allow the snake to ‘see heat’ so the Python can track the heat signals that their prey gives off. As with all snakes, Royal Pythons are equipped with a Jacobson Organ, located in the roof of their mouth. When the snake flicks its tongue, it is capturing scent molecules. These are interpreted by the Jacobson Organ allowing the snake to detect prey from a considerable distance.

Fig 5 Headshot and Heat Pits

As previously stated, Royal Pythons are one of the ideal ‘starter reptiles’ but remain popular with even the most avid reptile keeping enthusiast. The care needs of a Royal Python are quite simple in comparison to many species of reptile. However, if the care they receive is inappropriate or incorrect it can result in suffering or death of the snake.

With appropriate care and loving attention, a captive Royal Python should live for many years. In fact, it is important that you realize that a well-cared for Python can live for over 20 years and have been known to live for over 40 years on rare occasions!

Royal Pythons generally have a very docile temperament, as they are more likely to curl up in a ball to protect themselves than strike at a potential threat. They are normally easy and safe to handle, even at full adult size of between 5 and 6 feet. They can become surprisingly tame and some appear to develop distinct personalities and characters.

Fig 6 Marty Snake Ambassador

Please read this care guide in conjunction with our ‘Basics of Reptile Care’ Guide. We are adapting all of our species guides to encompass the ‘Five Needs’ outlined in the 2006 Animal Welfare Act (Section 9). Although we have tried to create a comprehensive care guide with information that works for our animals, we strongly urge you to carry out further research and reading before buying your first snake. Need for a suitable environment:

Royal Pythons are not the most active of snakes. Often, they behave as an ‘ambusher predators’ lying in wait for a potential next meal to walk into their ‘trap’. This means that Royal Pythons don’t need excessively large enclosures. A hatchling should be housed in a small 2ft (57.5x49x50cm) vivarium, a medium 3ft (86x49x50cm) sized vivarium should house a juvenile Python nicely. Once Royal Pythons reach ‘adulthood’ at around 3 years old they should be housed in a large 4ft (115x49x50cm) vivarium or bigger if necessary.

New legislation effecting the UK reptile trade sets out a minimum enclosure size as a length of no less than 2 thirds the length of the snake and a depth of no less than a third of the length of the snake. Although some keepers argue against this stipulation it does serve as a useful guide towards ensuring enclosure size is appropriate for your pet snake. It should also be noted that some young Royal Pythons struggle to feed if their enclosure is overly large. Provision of extra hides and coverage to make the snake feel more secure in its enclosure does often help. However, there are occasions where it is necessary to accommodate the snake in a much smaller than expected enclosure. The shop or breeder supplying you with your snake should be able to advise you regarding enclosure size.

There are many types of enclosure that are suitable for accommodating Royal Pythons. Small hatchlings can be housed in 3 litre Braeplast Boxes or similar sized plastic tubs, progressing to larger plastic faunariums. As the snake grows it should be moved into larger and appropriately sized enclosures.

Fig 7 Braeplast Box and Faunarium

The most popular type of enclosure used to house Royal Pythons is the standard wooden vivarium. Alternatives can include glass terrariums, plastic vivarium’s and large ‘tubs’ such as Really Useful Boxes. Providing the appropriate environment can be maintained within the enclosure any of these can be a suitable home for your pet. Our preferred accommodation for Royal Pythons is the standard wooden vivarium. We believe these allow for the creation of a good thermal gradient within the enclosure, they can be furnished to meet the snake’s requirements whilst serving as a stunning display for your pet. Our ‘Basic of Reptile Care’ guide discusses further the various types of enclosures and their merits.

Fig 8 Wooden Display Vivarium

It is also important to remember that snakes are very good escape artists and it is extremely important that you ensure vents, doors and any other potential escape routes are secured.

Heating

Your Royal Python will require some form of heating within its enclosure. Reptiles, often referred to as cold blooded, are ectothermic. This means that they cannot generate their own body heat nor do they have any inbuilt ability to regulate their body temperature. They are dependent on their environment for warming up and cooling down. They will move from areas of warmth or cool to achieve their optimal body temperature. This temperature regulation is vital for the reptile’s enzyme and metabolic activity and for the process of digestion. The process of controlling body temperature by moving from warm to cool along a thermal gradient is called thermoregulation.

An appropriately sized and placed heat mat can provide the degree of warmth required for your snake to create the hot end of the thermal gradient within the enclosure. However, we cannot stress enough the importance of using a thermostat to regulate the temperature of the heat mat. Without a thermostat these mats can become dangerously hot resulting in severe burns to your snake. A thermostat will help keep electricity usage costs down and prevent fires. Your thermostat should be calibrated against and your enclosure temperatures monitored with the use of digital thermometers. The thermal gradient should range from around 33°C (91°F) at the hottest end and around 26°C (80°F) at the coolest end of the enclosure. When using a heat mat these temperatures are measured at substrate level.

Fig 9 Heatmat and Thermostat

Alternatively, the thermal gradient can be established using a heat lamp or ceramic heater affixed to the roof of the enclosure. Again, it is vital that the heat source is controlled and regulated by an appropriate thermostat and monitored with digital thermometers. The heat source should be carefully placed and an appropriate guard used to ensure the snake cannot coil around the lamp or heat emitting device or become wedge between it and the side of the vivarium.

Fig 10 Heating Unit with Cage and Stat

Please refer to our Basic of Reptile Care Guide for more information regarding heat sources and thermostats.

Lighting

Royal Pythons are frequently kept in enclosures without any form of internal lighting. Providing the room in which the enclosure is situated has a defined day/night light cycle this is not usually a problem. Small LED lighting strips can transform a dull looking enclosure into a stunning display. White LEDS can be used to give a day light effect whilst a blue or red light can be used for viewing the snake at night. The use of a dimmer helps ensure the light intensity is not too bright for your snake.

Fig 11 LED light Packs

Royal Pythons have been successfully kept for many years without supplementary UVB lighting. The crepuscular nature of these snakes does however mean that in the wild they would be exposed to low levels of UVB. We would not discourage any reptile keeper from providing an appropriate level of supplementary UVB lighting. (The only exception being the need for caution with albino/scaleless species). The UVB index for Royal Pythons is 0 to 2-3. The provision of a 6% UVB tube attached to the top of a well-furnished standard 15” tall vivarium would result in UVB exposure comparable to that the animal would receive in the wild. It is of course essential that the UVB unit is securely mounted so that the snake can’t dislodge it or become trapped in the wiring.

Water Dish

The provision of a water dish is not for drinking purposes alone. Your Royal Python will sometimes want to soak in its water bowl. Soaking is normal behaviour in the pre shed phase. As such the water bowl should be big enough and deep enough to accommodate your snake. The bowl should only be filled to a third of its depth to prevent overflowing when the snake bathes.

Cage Furnishings.

Your Royal Python will require hides at either end of the enclosure’s thermal gradient. The hides should be of a size where the snake feels safe and secure. There should be very little space between the underside of the hide and the ‘balled up’ snake inside. In such a tight-fitting hide, the snake knows there is little chance of anything intruding into his or her hiding space. The provision of foliage and cork bark tubes etc. create further areas of refuge for your snake. Insecurity through the lack of, or inappropriately sized hides is a major contributory factor in snakes refusing to feed.

Royal Pythons may not be the most active of snakes, but they do benefit from exercise and enclosure enrichment. It is beneficial for them to have branches and vines to climb on. They do seem to appreciate and benefit from different textures within their enclosure. Bark and rocks can help during the shedding process. A change the scenery every once in a while, will give your Python something new to explore. This simple form of enrichment helps ensure your pet doesn’t get too bored. It can also transform a wooden / glass box enclosure into a stunning visual display.

Artificial plants, branches, and rocks can be purchased at a modest price in store. Plastic plants are easy to clean and disinfect.

Fig 12 Furnished Royal Python Enclosure

Substrate

Substrate is the term used to describe the layer of bedding that lines the bottom of the enclosure. The most commonly used substrates for Royal Pythons are Lignocel, Natracel or Aspen. These affordable substrates are dust extracted, soft and absorbent. They allow for easy spot cleaning and if changed regularly they help minimise odour’s whilst ensuring your snake is housed in hygienic conditions. It is vital that substrate that has become wet through water spillage or bodily waste is changed. If left, the excess humidity can cause respiratory infection whilst soiled wet bedding can result in scale rot and scouring burns.

There is an increasing trend amongst reptile keepers towards the creation of bio active enclosures. This involves the replication of the animal’s natural environment with natural substrates that include custodian insects and live plants. The custodian insects break down waste matter converting it into food for the plants. Although this sounds simplistic, in reality it is less than easy to accomplish a bio active enclosure that could effectively deal with the waste produced by an adult Royal Python. Pending the publication of our own ‘Bio Active Guide’ we would highly recommend you visit https://bioactiveherps.co.uk/ if you wish to explore this topic further.

Need for a suitable diet:

Royal Pythons feed on mice or rats appropriately sized to their mouth or the thickest section of their body.

Royal Python hatchlings start feeding on fuzzy mice or small rat pinks. hey should be fed every 5-6 days until they are juveniles. Juveniles will eat every 7-10 days feeding on increasingly larger prey items according to their size. Once the Python is an adult it will be eating every 3 weeks-1 months. As they grow and mature they will begin to eat less frequently and eat even larger prey.

Left to Right Rat Pink,Fuzz,Pup, Small Weaner, Large Weaner, Small & Medium Rat

Fig 13 Feeder size array

It is important to be aware that a mature Royal Python can go for considerable periods of time without eating. It is not unusual for adults to undergo fasting periods of several months during the winter months and prior to breeding. We have had Royal Pythons fast for 5 to 6 months with barely any loss of weight or body stature. This can be worrying for the less experienced snake keeper. If you are concerned that your snake is fasting for a prolonged period please speak to the breeder or outlet who supplied your snake.

Snake food should be available from your local reptile shop in the form of frozen rodents or chicks. It is also possible to buy frozen snake food online, although if you only own one or two snakes this is not usually very cost effective.

There should be NO requirement to feed your snake ‘live prey’. Live feeding can be dangerous for your snake, a live rodent can fight back with sharp teeth. If it is necessary for the survival of the snake to feed it ‘live prey’ it should not be offered for sale. It should remain with the shop or breeder until it is regularly eating defrost food.

Prior to feeding it to your snake, the food item shouldbe thoroughly defrosted then warmed up to body temperature. To warm the food, it can be placed inside a zip lock bag and floated in hot water, placed on a heat mat or hot water bottle. Never warm your snake food in the micro wave or oven. Prior to offering the pre warmed food to the snake we give it an extra boost of warmth from a hairdryer, paying particular attention towards heating the head of the prey. This helps ensure that the Royal Python will latches onto the head rather than the body when striking its prey. Food should be presented to the snake with a pair of feeding forceps. (Grip the rodent in the forceps just in front of the pelvis and present it to the snake head first.) When feeding NEVER use your hands to offer the food !! Feeding by hand carries a very high risk of being bitten.

Fig 14 Prey in Forceps feeding snake

It is also important to maintain high hygiene standards when feeding snakes. Frozen rodents can carry harmful bacteria such as Salmonella. It is important that any surfaces outside of the enclosure that are touched by the prey item are disinfected. Hands should be washed with antibacterial soap after handling snake food and feeding your snake.

It is recommended that you avoid handle your Royal Python on feeding day as they will be hungry and may not want to socialise with you. Do not handle your Python until 48 hours after feeding as it needs time to digest its food. If handled too soon it may regurgitate the food item.

Many snakes will not feed when coming into shed, especially during the blue eyed phase. Unless your snake appears to be actively hunting for food, wait until it has shed rather than attempt to feed when your snake is ‘in blue’.

It is recommended that you keep a chart or record of when your Royal Python eats/refuses food and sheds. This will help you in regards to assessing the overall health of your Python.

Fig 15 Snake Feed Record

If your young Royal Python regularly refuses food or misses several feeds in succession please speak to the breeder or outlet who supplied your pet.

If you purchase your Royal Python from Grinning Gecko we would be delighted to invite you to take part in one of our snake feeding sessions prior to taking your new pet home.

Need to be able to exhibit normal behaviour patterns:

In terms of reptile ownership and Royal Python care, this is perhaps a rather vague need. It is argued that a captive reptile could never truly exhibit normal behaviour patterns. The same argument could just as easily be applied to ALL animals kept in captivity including cats, dogs, and other conventional pets. This should not deter us from attempting to create conditions where our reptiles CAN display normal behaviour patterns.

Environmental conditions must be appropriate for your Royal Python so that it can thermo-regulate. Being ectotherms, Royal Pythons need to be able to move between areas of warmth and cool to regulate their body temperature. If conditions within the enclosure are incorrect, they will NOT be able to exhibit normal ectothermic behaviour.

Royal Pythons are crepuscular, being most active at dusk and dawn. They need a distinct day and night lighting cycle. Without this, they would not be able to demonstrate normal levels of crepuscular activity. They need areas of shade, and areas to get completely out of the light. Without cover and a photo gradient within their enclosure normal behaviour patterns will be restricted.

Video Royal Python in the wild.

Although a Royal Python can live happily on a diet consisting solely of a single type of prey, for example rats, it is beneficial to offer a wider variety such a diet. Variation in the way prey is presented, for instance left on a branch rather than simply offering direct from the forceps can stimulate a natural hunting behaviour. Opportunity for this is unfortunately limited as the prey will soon lose its warmth. It is fascinating to watch a Python capturing/striking, constricting and ingesting its food whole.

We would encourage you to research the natural behaviour of wild Royal Pythons and as far as possible create conditions within your Pythons enclosure that allow it to behave as far as possible in a way similar to its wild cousins.

During periods of warm weather it is worth considering taking your Royal Python out in the garden for short spells. Obviously, you will have to be careful that your pet can not escape, that it can’t be attacked by other animals or of course attack any animal itself. It is perhaps in the setting outside of the enclosure that we truly see how majestic these animals are. The way they move and interact with their surroundings will give you greater insight into the normal behaviour exhibited by their wild cousins.

Fig 16 Royal Python exploring garden.

Need to be housed with, or apart, from other animals:

We strongly advise against cohabitation of Royal Pythons. The potential for complications far outstretches any potential benefits. Competition for optimal basking spots, hides or areas to soak etc can be stressful to the enclosure occupants. A male and female will eventually display mating and reproductive behaviour. A male Royal Python will reach sexual maturity before a female. Reproduction places considerable physiological stress on a female. This stress will be magnified should an immature or undersized female Royal Python become gravid.

The feeding of Royal Pythons in a multi occupant enclosure can become rather problematic, especially if both snakes are hungry.

Although incidences are very rare, Royal Pythons have displayed cannibalistic behaviour. In 2017, two very young Royal Python were transported to one of the IHS Breeders Meetings in a shared transport tub. To their owner’s horror, whilst in transit, the slightly larger of the two snakes had ingested the other. To make this incidence even worst, the snake ingesting its travelling companion had asphyxiated and died whilst partaking in its ill chosen meal. It would be easy to dismiss this as yet another internet myth. Sadly this incident was anything but a myth and was witnessed and widely discussed at the IHS event

In general, it’s not recommended to house 2 Royal Pythons within the same enclosure. The only time we would advocate placing two Royal Pythons together in the same enclosure would be for a carefully planned mating introduction.

Need to be protected from pain, suffering, injury, and disease.

When considering the health needs of your Royal Python it is perhaps best to begin by looking at a healthy Royal Python. A healthy Python will have bright eyes without any discharge and its mouth will have no visible signs of trauma or infection. There should be no significant overbite or underbite when the jaws are closed. Its nostrils should also be free of discharge.

The adult Royal Pythons body should be well filled without being overtly obese. A healthy Royal Python will be alert and constantly flicking its tongue to sense it’s surroundings. It should be able to support its own weight and move around with ease.

The skin of your Royal Python should be free from cuts, abrasions or lesions. The scales should all appear to be facing down in uniform layers and feel smooth when stroked from head to tail direction. The cloaca, should be clean with no sign of prolapse or discharge. Ideally there should be no evidence of old retained shed or retained spectacle scales.

(All snakes can retain their eye scales and have the occasional ‘patchy’ shed. This is not necessarily a sign that a snake is in poor condition. Shedding problems and retained eye caps are generally easily rectified. However multiple layers of retained shed and eye caps are a significant reason for concern.)

It is important that you examine the snake for evidence of external parasites. If the Python has black dots (possibly moving) and is seen soaking in water a lot this could be mites. If it is confirmed to be mites the snake must be treated immediately as this is very uncomfortable for the Python and could be passed on to any other snakes it comes in contact with.

The Python’s faeces should be solid and dark in colour. Royal Python faeces do not normally have an offensive odour. Blood or mucus in a Royal Pythons faeces is a clear sign of underlying illness needing urgent investigation and treatment.

Although initially, it will often be curled in a ball with its head tucked away, a Python should become active when disturbed. Providing enclosure temperatures are adequate it should be easily roused. It should not appear disorientated or display neurological symptoms such as circling or star gazing as often seen with Spider morph Royal Pythons.

It is a good idea to weigh your snake on a regular basis with a set of digital scales. We would suggest weekly for the first 6 months of your Python’s life then on a monthly basis. In the first 12 months of life, your Royal Python should show a steady weight gain and size increase. This tapers off over the next few years and by the age of 3/4 years, your Python will probably have attained full size.

If you monitor your Python’s weight on a regular basis you may be able to spot any health problems before symptoms become obvious. A fluctuation of less than 10% in body weight is generally of no concern. However, if your Python shows a significant or consistent weight loss then further investigation is required.

One of the most urgent health problems with a Royal Python or indeed any snake, is a respiratory infection. If your snake shows any sign of bubbling at the mouth or nostrils, increased respiratory rate and gaping mouth, it is possible that your snake has a respiratory infection. This is a serious health problem that demands urgent treatment. Snakes only have one fully functioning lung and it is essential that this function is not compromised. If you suspect your snake has a respiratory infection please seek veterinary help immediately. Whilst awaiting transportation to your vet increase the enclosure temperature slightly. It is important to ensure the snake is kept warm in transit.

If your Python does become ill or sustains an injury, as its owner you have a ‘duty of care’ to get it an appropriate level of help. For minor concerns, it may be appropriate to contact the Python’s breeder, the store you purchased it from or to seek advice from Internet reptile groups or forums. For animals obtained from us, you are more than welcome to contact us at any time for advice. It does not matter how long you have had the Python, how old it is, we are here to help.

In the event of a serious illness or injury, if your Python is collapsed or unresponsive there is little value in seeking help from the Internet. You need specialist help in the form of a vet. It is a very good idea to have the contact details for your vet before the need arises. Unfortunately, some vets charge a little more for treating reptiles as they are considered ‘exotics’. It is possible to ensure your Python, paying a monthly premium to cover veterinary expenses. Alternatively, and our recommendation, is that you put a little amount away each month to build an emergency fund for your snake.

One of the keywords in the last of the ‘Five Needs’ is protected. We have mentioned in the other ‘needs’ the importance of a correct environment, a thermostat to protect your Python from burns, the correct nutrition etc. etc. By following these measures you will be going a long way towards meeting the ‘need to protect your Royal Python from pain, suffering, injury, and disease.’

Rather than writing a list and explanation of the health problems a Royal Python can experience we ask that you read our guide to common reptile ailments.

Thank you for reading this comprehensive Royal Python care guide. We hope it proves useful towards giving your Python the best possible care. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you wish to discuss any of the content or if you require further information. If you spot something we have missed or any errors in the guide, please drop us a line.

We are committed towards promoting ‘responsible, caring and ethical’ reptile ownership. We are delighted to help and advise any keeper towards giving their snakes the best possible care. You do NOT need to have purchased a snake from us to gain our help. Please visit our contact page for details of how to reach us. We will reply to your messages at the earliest opportunity.

As your interest in Royal Pythons develops you may find yourself drawn towards the fascinating hobby of Royal Python Breeding. It is beyond the scope of this guide to discuss the intricacies of breeding these beautiful snakes. We would encourage you to carry out as much research as you possibly can, join specialist Royal Python groups and talk with experienced Royal Python breeders.

Finally, we would like to wish you many years of successful Python keeping and the happiest and healthiest of reptiles,

Best wishes

Grinning Gecko